On the nose

It was taking us three whole days to arrive at the dolphin reef. The 200 miles from Khor Shinab we would usually sail in less than two days, but with the winds on the nose and our stubbornness to limit our engine time, we spent more time tacking. Winds around Cape Ras Banas are always a bit stronger. It would have been favourable to pass the cape in light winds or calm weather. But the weather window was short and closed already, when we finally arrived in the night at the cape. 25 knots on the nose. Already during the day the wind had picked up. To avoid falling through the boat we were kneading the dough for the bread on the floor. The kids used our shopping bags to luge down the slope. I was once more impressed about the creativity of the little ones.

It’s getting complicated

During the last weeks we repeatedly heard cruisers saying via email, in the internet or in real life „I’m fed up by the Egyptians“. Compared to last year October, clearance costs in Port Ghalib increased ten fold. Visiting Hurghada requires clearance again and even is more expensive. Even with a valid cruising permit landing ashore is a nightmare everywhere else. In Suez everyone will be ripped and sailing to Port Said is only advisable when having a booking for a mental clinic. Since 1st of April Ghalib suddenly asked for yellow fever vaccination to enter the country when approaching from Sudan according to fellow yachtsman.

Already now, before entering the country, we can confirm part of the stories. Our quote for clearing at Ghalib is exorbitant including non sense such as car hire cost to visit authorities despite them being around and being conduced by a long established tourist company. Respective firm, currently holds the monopoly to act as an agent, required for clearance at Ghalib and mildly speaking is making use of the position. Other cruisers started boycotting Ghalib, but we barely have an alternative as we are currently just living on rice and pasta.

Also the coast guard appears to be overeager. An egyptian war ship contacted us letting us know that we were sailing in restricted waters. Indeed we even were sailing outside of egyptian in international waters. Let’s see how this will continue for us. Meantime, I’m wondering whether there might be a connection to mass tourism and money.

Dolphin reef

Undisputed, there are tourists around. Yesterday morning, when we entered the lagoon of the reef after dawn, we noticed 10 large motor yachts at anchor. Each of them carried a bunch of diving tourists, who are living on board for a week or two exploring the reefs. To our delight, on the other side of the lagoon, also two sail boats, Melipal and Rennegade, were anchoring. The Malteasean and Austrian couples together with the crew of Windchase have been enduring the strong winds of the last days only 20 miles to Khor Shinab.

Straight after breakfast we jumped in our wet suits and into the water. For the first time since almost two years we really needed the suits. Now, we finally get what the Australian Greg meant when saying „Greece is great, but the water is freezing“. At that time we thought „you probably missed swimming in the baltic sea“ but now we are spoiled too. The dolphins haven’t been visiting, but snorkelling at the reef still was great. The water was crystal clear. Water that clear we last time have been seeing in the Tuamotus, except for Sanganeb. In the afternoon, we had great fun with the crews of the other boats. It was great to talk to other people. When hearing „you don’t sail in the northern Red Sea“, our 120 miles under sails to come here suddenly felt great and not like failure.